Sunday, August 26, 2007

Good questions

I had a nice fellow contact me and ask me some start-up questions. I am happy to report that he has gone into production on his line and he is on his way with a fabulous product that you will no doubt see on shelves soon. I am including parts of his reply because I think they bring up some good points. Most of what you read, doing research, is corporate positioned facts and statistics. One reason I started this blog is to let you all in on my actual experiences I encountered starting a soft goods company and trying to launch an apparel brand.

Statistics are interesting and important but I found that when I was doing my research I was not really absorbing the information because it was all so new, I didn't have any reference in place to apply it. I look back now on what I read in the books I bought at the beginning and think, "Wow, that's right! That is true." But at the time it didn't make much sense I was just filling the mental library with information.

I hope you enjoy the following exchange:
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Question:
I’m just now uncurling from the fetal position after realizing how little I know... I’ve been doing a lot of research and a lot of what you covered I’ve never heard before. If only you had more time I could totally see a book from you, that breaks down how to launch a product, based on different budgets.

Awesome tip about who manufactures the product. I would have never phrased it like that.

Did you set the amount you were going to spend at the beginning and have a large upfront cost that maintained you for awhile, or did you have to spend and spend and spend?
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My reply:
To answer your question regarding money... I did not do a business plan. (But I have one now) Blessing and a mistake.
A blessing because had I planned more, I would not have started the business because I would have had some indication of the colossal undertaking involved in trying to launch an apparel brand.

A mistake because had I planned more I would have had some indication as to how expensive it would be.

The problem with investing "in the beginning" is that the beginning could take 5 years. I have invested about $400,000 so far. Investors, 2nd home mortgage, separate business loans etc... Your trade shows and advertising budget annually should be about $20,000+. It is imperative that you advertise consistently. The best venue for juvenile items is Earnshaw's. It's a phenomenal, very focused infant/toddler children's wear trade mag. I pick up 1-4 new accounts a month just from my ad in that magazine. So that's about $700-$2,000 a month in ad rates depending on the size of the ad you run. Travel and hotels for tradeshows run about $1,500 per show plus $3000 in booth fees x 2-4 shows a year. You might surmise from this, that a 10-15K initial investment is nowhere near enough to sustain even the first year. And you can't count on that nice $250,000+ order from Sears in the first couple years. You might get it, great! But what if you don't? Do you have the cash flow to keep moving forward?

If you have a gift item you should REALLY invest in fantastic packaging design because if the concept is great, fabulous packaging would put you over the top. Consider consulting a MERCHANDISING specialist. Marketing and publicity is great but someone who can help you with merchandising will be key. You will also have to deal with high insurance premiums and textile testing because you are in the juvenile market. It's pretty strict in flammability requirements and you are dealing with the highest liability bracket so insurance will need it's own budget consideration.

Even if you do get a big order right out of the gate, you will need to use asset-based lending to manufacture it because you won't see a dime from big stores until 3-6 months AFTER you SHIP the order. Try not to use a Factor. Their rates are not competitive. Celebrate your first big order but should they cancel while the order is on the way to the floor (which they do, because the wind changed direction or the PMSing buyer never wrote the order down and says she never made one with you. I'm not kidding) Then you have lots of inventory and you will have to pay for it somehow.

Start small. Boutiques prepay with credit cards mostly (get set up to take credit cards if you don't already) But be prepared to be in the mom and pop market for a while. If you can open enough accounts, the cash flow is much better and MUCH less hassle than big accounts.

Consider contacting big brands like Gerber or Carters to see if they want to license the patent (if you have one to license) so they can put their name on it and your manufacturing and distribution problems are solved.

If you plan to launch your own brand, be prepared to commit a couple hundred thousand $$ for the long haul.

And know that in the United States, in this economy it is extremely difficult to get a big box store to give you that vendor number and the real estate (rack space) on the floor and get behind the product so that you will see the sell through you need to get a re-order. So far, I have found it impossible. That isn't to say it can't be done, but unless you have an in, all I can do is wish you the best of luck. And should you succeed you must come back and tell me how you did it! :-)

OTHER LINKS:

Consider advertising on JamesGirone.com It's also a great place to find reps and a ton of other info for the juvenile soft goods industry.

Find a good, honest contractor (manufacturer). They will source fabric for you and trim and print up your hang tags, garment tags, order your custom painted snaps... EVERYTHING. One-stop-shop. They will even handle all the packaging. And work in US dollars only if your contractor is overseas.

Just for clarification: YOU are the manufacturer of your product. Even when you hire a "manufacturer" they are actually your sewing contractor. People will ask you, "Who manufactures your product?" The answer is, "We do. It's our product, we design and manufacture it." Unless of course you license the patent to Gerber... that's a different story.

My warehouse and fulfillment company is:
E Fulfillment Service. Great rates, incredible customer service, safe, clean, dry warehouse with virtually zero error and theft rate. They are so so SO good.

On a smaller scale to help with pattern development right here in the US of A... try
Pattern Design Unlimited I have never worked with them but am constantly intrigued by the services they offer...

Contact SCORE if you want for free business advice... investor stuff and you name it. My SCORE consultant is one of my most important allies. And over the years I have worked with him, we have become good friends.

One of these days I will get into the details of licensing. What a great industry THAT is!!!

1 Comments:

At 7:45 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

At 4:06 PM , Anonymous Loving Baby, Inc. said...

Hi Jennifer,
This was such a great post. I was searching the web for answers to my obsessed question: "Am I a lisencor or lisencee?" Your post made this clear to me after being confused for several years. There is a difference in licensing a patent right or getting someone to allow you to use their logo?
I have wanted to go to the licensing show in NY for 4 years now but found it expensive and faraway (difficult with kids). Now that it has moved to Vegas I will be going next weeek. I am the inventor of the Swaddle Blanket (Loving Baby Swaddle Blanket). I have done the entire start up as you describe it. It has been an incredible journey and like you, if i had done a complete business plan on the get go I would have not continued. With the economy changing I am now interested in licensing more than ever. For some reason it has been something I have been avoiding.I think it was because I had the "I don't Know factor" stopping me.
I am now going to the show with more gusto! Thank you.
I'd love for you to send me any advice you may have to make my trip as fruitful as possible. I would also like to meet you one day! I love your product!
Katerina Trani,
CEO/Founder
Loving Baby, Inc
"Swaddle-Up for Wellness!"
You can also follow me at twitter at twitter.com/swaddleup

 

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